Adventures

Day Hike – Mauna Loa, Hawaii, Largest Volcano in the World 

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Mauna Loa Summit Day Hike 

Hike Level: Difficult

Distance: 13 miles RT – 6.4 miles up

Start Time: 8a

End Time: 6:20p

Total time: 10 hours and 20 minutes

 

Our Fitness Levels: 

  • Jen –  age 31 – runs 6 times a week, 4-8 mile runs. Eats Raw Till 4  Vegan
  • Mike – age 35 – runs 1-2 times a week and plays basketball on the weekends, but in the week and a half leading up to the hike has been going on long walks and short runs. Eats whatever he damn well pleases.

Shoe Recommendations:

The ground is craggy and you must walk over hard, metallic-sounding volcanic rock. I was comfortable in my low-rise, thin-soled Nike Air cross trainers, but I’m unsure others would be.
I would have preferred hiking sneakers, but these shoes were fine as long as I kept on eye on the ground.

Mike wore sturdy boots, which were a good choice for him as they helped support his ankles. I would not have worn boots because I think they are too heavy to step up and down in for 15 miles and 2000+ feet elevation climb at a high altitude.

Food and Water 

About Mauna Loa 

Mauna Loa is the largest volcano in the world, and its mass is equivalent to 85% of the Hawiian islands combined. Meaning “Long Mountain” in Hawaiian, Mauna Loa takes up half of the Island of Hawaii. Rising 4 kilometers above sea level, it continues another 13 kilometers below. In addition to its height, its breadth is quite large, with just its surface area continuring from the southern tip of the Big Island of Hawaii, up 120 km.

Mauna Loa is the largest volcano in the world, and its mass is equivalent to 85% of the Hawiian islands combined. What a feat to add to my list of hikes.

Not only is it huge, it is one of the most active volcanoes in the world, with 33 recroded eruptions since it first became documented in 1843. Just take a look at this video of its eruptions between 1940-1984. As the Big Island Keep an eye on current activity and long term activity.

One of the most active volcanoes in the world, it scares me to think what will happen to the people here when it erupts.

13,678 feet

That’s how high we will be traveling today.

Hike Log – Tuesday, April 4, 2017

2:30a

I am awake. I can’t sleep. Between the excitement and anxiety of climbing much 1,000 feet higher than I have ever climbed before and the blow I was dealt in not being offered the salary I was hoping for from one of my job offers, and feeling insult as well as a crush of the future I had seen with an exciting startup, I am restless.

I head downstairs to the Business Center of the Marriott to write a thanks, but no thanks letter to Synocate, and then Facetime with Sandy.

4:50a 

Time to wake up Mike. I let him sleep in an extra 20 minutes.

5:30a

Clear weather, high above the clouds as we drive to Mauna Loa Weather Observatory

We hit the road. I drive as he eats a sandwich and DJs some bad 90s West Coast rap, teaching me all about Tupac and Suge Knight, who, from his accounts, seem to have let their egos and greed lead them down a road of incarceration and death. How disheartening.

7a

Mauna Loa Weather Observatory Trail.

We hit the 17-mile scenic, but winding, makes-me-motion-sick drive, off of Saddle Road. The road is smooth, but the frequent   dips and turns off the road make me so sick I’m paralyzed with nausea by the time we hit the parking lot.

A regular sedan can maneuver this paved road easily. It is treacherous, but a car with 4-wheel drive can make it further up the mountain from this point, but it is not advisable.

7:30a

11,141 feet.

Small Visitor’s Parking Lot at Mauna Loa Weather Observatory.

High above the clouds at Mauna Loa Weather Observatory.

What a view! We are well above the clouds and although I cannot move my crumpled, nausea-riddled body from the passenger seat of the car for 15 minutes, when I do get out, the view is clear.

We have ideal, clear weather in which to climb.

The Mauna Loa Weather Observatory lies behind the parking lot.

The Visitor’s Parking Lot has room for about 7 cars to park, although online reading informs me that it never fills. Generally only 1-2 cars are ever parked here as so few embark on the Summit Day Hike up Mauna Loa. One other car is parked. We wonder who they are.

Finally I’m not paralyzed with nausea. I eat two papayas and we start our long hike up Mauna Loa.

I am relieved when my nausea subsides to the point that I can eat two papayas and start to feel better.

7:50a 

We are out of the car and on our way.

The trail is marked by “ahu,” more commonly referred to as cairns. The next Ahu should always be in your sight before heading in a direction. The are not always easy to see, but there will always be one visible if you look carefully.

Warning: Bring your eyeglasses and your sunglasses. 

The ahu can be extremely hard to see, especially as you head down and the sub begins to set.
8:20a

In the first 1/2 mile along a dirt road we ascend 500 feet.
8:30a

11,600 feet.

The increased elevation is felt with every step initially. It drags you down. 15 minutes in my body assists to the elevation ,and although I walk with greater ease, every time I stop and turn around to look for Mike trailing slightly behind me, I get that feeling of a rush of blood to the head that occurs when one takes an afternoon nap and suddenly stands up, all the blood rushing to one’s head and sending her back down with a blind stroke of dizziness.

Beautiful, craggy landscape of Mauna Loa.

I try not to turn my whole body suddenly to look for Mike when I stop. As the elevation is a greater hamper to Mike, I warn him not to turn around.

8:48a

1.6 miles. 11,900 feet

Checking up on Mike, who was suffering from altitude sickness.

I keep ahead of Mike, as my eyesight (thanks Manhattan Lasik) is keener, and although I need breaks to catch my breath while Mike catches up with me, I am in better shape to scout the steps between ahu.

Why? I think that sleeping a couple nights above sea level – 1000 feet – even if in a car – has helped my body, used to Manhattan sea level elevation – to function here. That and the hiking at Volcano National Park (4,000 feet) and Mauna Kea (11,000 feet).

9:00a
2 miles. 12,065 feet

Be careful and avoid walking on the little rocks that skitter from underneath you as you walk this part of the trail. They can cause you to slip. Better to step on the harder, solid, smooth rock.

9:23a

12500 feet.

A couple miles in, the trail turns to smooth rock.

Battling the incline a couple miles on the Mauna Loa Summit Day Hike.

I’m grateful to be feeling no headache or nausea at the same point of altitude where I had to keel over on Fuji to take a nap. I am grateful for the altitude pills and aspirin I took in the morning.

9:45a

2.5 miles. 12,485 feet.

We have taken a couple 5-minute breaks

At this point I have eaten 6 rainbow papayas and 1 fig bar, as well as drank a cup of coffee. Mike has eaten a sandwich, drank a Red Bull, and eaten a Clif Bar.

Raw Till 4 Vegan Hike Diet – papayas, overnight oats, fig bars, and bagels

10:20a

Halfway up the summit we reach the multicolored, shimmering rocks – green, iridescent, and red – I had read about it other posts about this hike! It is rejuvenating and sparks our enthusiasm for the trail, seeing something new.

We also reach the split in the road (go right) and the snow drifts. It’s above freezing, so they are melting and rarely lie in the middle of the trail. I’m relieved as my shoes are not waterproof.

The trail also gets much easier to walk on. Amazingly, it has turned into a dirt path, rather than the hard, molten rock we have walked on for miles.


11:10a

12,900 feet.

We see the hikers whose car is parked next to ours at the Observatory Visitor’s Parking Lot.

It is exciting to watch them descend, knowing we will soon have people to talk to, who can tell us about what is ahead.

We are told that they have spent the night at the cabin, situated a couple miles from the summit.

They don’t have much to say. No comment on the difficulty or how they felt at any point along the trail.

We exchange turns taking photos of each other and wish them well on theirdescent .

11:21a

4.1 miles. 3047 feet.

We find a path lined with rocks.


It’s unbelievable to think that at this height  and altitude folks have endeavored to line this path with rocks.

Snacking on 2 more papaya, and a 15 break make me feel much more myself. I will have eaten 11 rainbow papaya by the time I reach the summit.

10 minutes back into walking I can easily  walk while typing notes on the hike, and my breath is less clipped. I am moving at a faster pace.

The temperature sinks to the 30s. I have to put my coat back on, but the cap, scarf, and gloves remain off.
1:49

Back to hard, molten rock.

The closer ahu unexplainably lead us to the left, when I can see the trail clearly continues straight ahead.

Then I see why…

Overlook about 5 miles in – over the molten Earth crater of Mauna Loa that we have just crossed.

The view is breathtaking, and the summit is in sight, but we are so tired and have the impending sunset to consider.

We ask ourselves, “Should we keep going of turn back ?”

2p

We think we see the summit to the left of our view straight ahead down the path. I am worried that if it took us 6 hours to reach this point that we need to turn around soon to reach the car well sunset. Mike looks exhausted and I need to pop another aspirin to keep the headaches at bay.

Lucky for us, Mike is Very stubborn! He looks whooped, but days we ought to continue for 15 more minutes before turning around.



I am fueled by frustration as I nearly run up the last 1/2 mile towards Mauna Loa’s summit. I am determined that if we are going to continue another 15 minutes, that I am going to make those 15 minutes count.

2:14p

Summit!!!!!!

It finally happens. Despite repeatedly thinking we were at the summit, we finally hit the true summit.

A bunch of trinkets and the logbook demarcate our end goal.

13,731 feet!!!

Mike’s GPS records us even higher than what I’ve read online is the summit point of 13,678 feet.


The view is remarkable, overlooking the black, molten crater we walked across earlier.

Mike is barely coherent. He needs 10 minutes before he speaks, but then gladly  takes the logbook from to write a message that he wants to keep private.


I take some time to write as well.


Maybe too honest?

2:30p

After enjoying the thrill of reaching the summit we begin the long descent…

And Get lost!


It is hard to see the ahu while heading down.

They don’t reign high the way they did earlier when we were looking up at them.

We veer off trail 15 minutes, thinking that Mike’s Garvin GPS, which has recorded our trail up can direct us back down. However, the recorded line that marks our route is not precise enough and tells us very little, leading us in a direction that does not set us back on the trail.


We wander across very craggy rock before I tell Mike we cannot trust his GPS, and although it is painful to walk backwards from whence we came, we must head back up to where we last saw ahu.

We make it back. It’s now 3p, and we have 6.5 miles and thousands of feet to descend over rough terrain before sunset at 6:30p.

The pressure is on. I’m a bit frightened we may not make it down before sunset as the last 1.5 miles of the trail require keen sight to avoid any dangerous steps on the rocky  terrain. Despite my fear, I remain stalwart and commanding of the situation assuring Mike that we will be ok and that we must keep on at a good place.

I pledge to devote all my water and food to Mike, as he has run out of both at this point and I only have a bottle, 1.5 bagels, and a couple Fig Bars left. I may get hungry or thirsty, but I know I’ll make it down without consuming more – I’m less sure if Mike will make it down without this sustenance.

3:34p

I’m worried about Mike.


He’s blanched. The altitude and high intensity exercise have taken so much of him. He’s stumbling and very weak. I keep insisting that he let me hold his bag, but he refuses, saying, “It’s not the weight. It feels like nothing.” Remembering the relief of Sandy carrying my bag for a bit on Fuji when I felt ill, I am worried he is being foolhardy not allowing me to take the weight of his bag off of him. He at least takes me up on my offers of water and food, and keeps up with my pace as I race ahead to spot and direct us along the ahu.

Jennifer Liepin, Ahu Finder



Reminder: Wear sunblock and bring tissues to blow your nose.
Despite applying SPF 30 Derma E facial sunblock every two hours, my nose is further sunburnt and the area under my nose is rubbed raw from blowing my nose along the hike.

 

Saying goodbye to Mauna Loa.

Was a relief to get off the mountain before the sun set, despite the paralyzing 2 hours of car sickness I experienced on the drive back to Kona.

Sunrise from the Mauna Loa Weather Observatory

Goodbye Mauna Loa. I will only ever climb you again if my husband is inclined to wrangle with you.

9 Comments on “Day Hike – Mauna Loa, Hawaii, Largest Volcano in the World ”

  1. Jennifer, congratulations for making it, and also shepherding your husband! It’s one of the toughest hikes I’ve done (I’ve done many…) and like you said, quite unforgiving. I enjoyed reading your account, it’s well done. I guess it pays to write while you are hiking, I never even thought about doing it that way. I am a vegetarian too, but used trail food. Interesting lifestyle you have. If I was in your position, I would bring a nice studio backdrop (basically a huge roll of white paper) and make great pictures of all those pets.

    1. Thanks a bunch for the congrats!
      I’m glad you are still active in responding to comments on this post, despite you having written it quite a bit ago.
      Have you hiked Mauna Loa recently. I love the idea of organizing for a studio backdrop. I am inspired by that suggestion, and I’ll let you know when I try it out 🙂

  2. Nice photos and details Jennifer. It’s not a hike for the inexperienced or unprepared. That said, I had terrible shoes when I did the hike so my feet were very sore at the end. I have better hiking shoes now so I think that would be better. Sorry about your car sickness, but I love that road. All the ups and downs and corners – it’s a fun drive, if you’re feeling OK that is. Did you notice the Mars training site on the way up? You can see it from the lower part of the road, a big dome.

    1. Oh my goodness! That is a Mars training site?! I am going to read up on this. Thanks for letting me know!
      I’m glad you enjoy that road. It was so beautiful heading up a little after sunrise, seeing the clouds at eye level, and then watching the sun set out of the corner of my eye as I tried to focus on the road to avoid vomiting.
      What shoes did you wear?!

    1. I’m glad you find it helpful. All the best and I’d love to hear how it works out for you. It’s challenging, but a beautiful hike.

  3. I did it! Summited on 7/5. Signed the register, flipped through it, and saw your entry 🙂

    I found it amazing. Can’t say it was overly difficult, but I have a decent amount of experience hiking 14ers in Colorado, It was just very long, gradual, slog. The cairns made it easy to follow but I had the route programmed in my GPS as a backup. The most interesting parts to me were the portion near the national park boundary where there’s all different kinds of colored lava, and of course, the summit. The drive up and down that one lane wavy road is kind of crazy too.

    I did get mild altitude sickness (headache) on the way back down, after all that time at altitude and spending the prior day snorkeling. It took me 6.5 hours total. I started at 6:30 and was back at my car at 1. My feet and ankles were quite sore and rubbed up, after walking on the uneven lava, for days after.

    1. You did so well, and I’m glad you only felt the sickness on the way down! I didn’t get too hard, but that winding road down really hurt me, as I’m prone to motion sickness.

      What will you climb next? Were you in Hawaii long?

      I ought to visit Colorado to try some of those 14ers. Just my speed. Not sure if I could do higher.

      1. I’m sure I did it quickly because I’m used to 14ers and was well conditioned for Mauna Loa.

        I’m still hiking 14ers in Colorado, I think Mt Yale and Longs Peak are next. I’ve done about 13 (of 54). IMO anyone with a reasonable amount of fitness can do a 14er. Its as much mental as physical. If you do decide to do one, just start early and do an easy one as your first, like Mt. Mount Bierstadt or Greys and/or Torreys Peaks. Check 14ers.com if interested.

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